Major civilizations in the world are made by the rivers. These civilizations residing specially on the basins of the river now have been developed into major cities. To name few Bangkok(Chao Phyara), Cairo(Nile), Kathmandu(Bagmati), Delhi(Yamuna) All these cities are now turned as financial center for the country and region. To become a busy metropolis today, all these city carry significant history and heritage imbibed in the tradition of the people. World's largest epic Mahabharata, is set on the cities on the banks of Yamuna river. The evening City river cruise at Bangkok city at Chao Phyara is not just a evening entertainment , but a century old heritage to be seen. What entices the most is the stories that lies behind the artifact and the culture/traditions that remains in the carving of temples and the bushes of ramshackled monument.
Such city with rich heritage and intangible stories behind such monuments is the Nepali capital--Kathmandu. A busy metropolis of a developing country which has century old habitation crippled into this valley is sure to dazzle anyone(even people inside Nepal). The more we peek into, more revelations about the city can be found. It’s always been fascinating to learn about the history of this medieval town. The culture still continues and the pride of history is what everyone inhabiting the city will share.
During the monarchical rule, all those stories and the glorious stories were household talks in the people of Kathmandu. Those stories played a part of intangible heritage. Lying in the mediocre of the valley, is the Teku Dobhan-Thapathali Bagmati bank which has it’s own untold history.
Starting form Teku Dobhan, it is a confluence of two religiously important rivers Bagmati and Bishnumati. Highly acclaimed Nepali historian Baburam Acharya wrote, the first Prime Minister of Nepal Bhimsen Thapa’s corpse was thrown to vultures after he proclaimed suciede in captivity. Just a few steps south from Teku Dobhan brings the gigantic river in Kathmandu valley, the Bagmati river. Alongside the river, a newly constructed park with stone pavement beautifies the area which earlier was a part occupied by slums and piles of timber shattered all across. On heading east lies the kalopul, the black bridge; two bridges co-exists; one for vehicles and another for humans. On crossing the Kalo Pul, we enter into a complex of Hindu temples of various generations.
East ward from Kalopul is Pachali Bhairav, a famous deity worshipped across the people of Kathmandu Valley. Few meter above Pachali Bhairav temple northwards is a tree where the martyr Sukra Raj Joshi (Sashtri) was hung by the rulers from the Rana regime for propagating democratic thoughts. A scholar educated in India, turned rebel is always remembered. Coming down again to the river side,
A pagoda style Laxmiswor Mahadev is visible due to its impeccable height visible from Teku Dobhan. Alongside the river towards Bagmati River are the ghats made of stone pavements. Dome shaped temple which now lies as ramshackle was constructed first Rana Ruler Jung Bahadur Rana and his preceding ruler Bom Bahadur Kunwar (Ranaji). Interesting thing is that the temple was made during Jung Bahadur Rana’s visit to Europe and worshipped by the then rulers at the advent of the Sino-Nepal war. History recounts in this place while walking along the banks of Bagmati river with new human settlement.
Just a few walk east from the temple complex brings us to Viswaniketan school which is one of the few schools established eight decades ago during the advent of democratic uprising in Nepal is an important emblem across the Bagmati River. With it’s classical old look of the artistic walls, one may find children running over the open grass playground on the banks of Bagmati. Another important intangible history that this area carries is the first Prime Minister’s Office of the democratic government where the first elected PMO resided which now is the National Eye Hospital. First Prime Minister after democratic restoration took over the office in Tripureswor. Heading southwards is another large Hindu Shiva temple complex of Pagoda style exists, now renovated after the devastatio of earthquake of 2015 which also entails the name of the town i.e. Tripureswor Mahadev.
Few meters eastwards is another Dome structured temple Kalmochan, painted all in while, rumours exists that this very temple was constructed overnight, how true could that be? And on today’s date too the first Prime Minister of Rana regime; Junga Bahadur Rana’s annual death rites are conducted in this temple. The latest tradition seen from the temple was after a grand ceremony of Danda Katataune of Katto Khane bahun. This intangible culture is now gone with the death of monarchs, where a Brahmin priest is fed with relics of Monarchs and then exiled from the Kathmandu valley after a grand progression. Adjoining to Kalmochan temple is the kuti made for Babas visiting Kathmandu valley from South of Nepal and India specially during the festival of Shivaratri. Every kutis have there own significance. There are various clans of Hindu Babas and yogis. The most important there is Naga Baba (who are usually nacked coming to Nepal during Shivaratri). Another important kuti is for the Sikhs. Right across the Bagmati river at the Thapathali conjunction is the Gurudwara, holy site for Sikhism. Rumours has that Guru Nanak once had came to Nepal and stayed in the same Kuti nearby Thapathalli area. After passing by the hashish smelled area of Kuti is the wider Bagmati River segment, where the heritage walk ends but going still further there is temple of Pancha Dewal, privately held temple of the ex-rulers of Nepal (Ranas) and a cavalry training institute.
Teku-Tripureshwor-Thapathali which is now the major business hub of the Nepali capital has it’s own history that carries from the centuries old traditions. So many stories that are untold exists. This story is an attempt to throw light on the issue of untold stories and the various intangible historical memoirs.
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